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AgSilver

USA
207 Posts

Posted - 06/16/2017 :  09:46:12  Show Profile  Visit AgSilver's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Be sure to check the transmission fluid level when it is hot and I mean really hot - - - like after a 15 minute drive and be sure not to overfill. I have been using Mobil 1 synthetic since the rebuild and find the performance to be excellent and no leaks. I also use Mobil 1 synthetic in the differential with good results (2 equal black strips of rubber on the pavement is my method of testing the LSD)

BTW I have a complete NOS LS differential assembly that I am considering selling. I've had it for more than 25 years.

Palm Beach Gardens, FL
Niederheimbach, Germany
300SEL 6.3
E55K AMG
CLK63 AMG Gone
Ferrari 400GTC4
ML400CDI BiTurbo
ML350 CDI BT
9146GT
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GeraldK

Canada
88 Posts

Posted - 06/20/2017 :  14:57:19  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hope you guys don't mind these updates on the progress.

I have not touched the transmission fluid yet. I decided to wait a bit and jack up the car a bit higher to get more working space. Came to this conclusion after struggling with installing the lower transmission linkage bushing. You're all correct in saying these are not easy to get on. While under the car I noticed that the neutral safety switch cable is snapped.

There's a couple oil leaks at the transmission. One at the rear where a clean drop of ATF is forming on the transmission. No pooling of oil on the floor. Another leak at the front appears to be engine oil, but again not pooling on the floor. I'm guessing the ATF leak is just the gasket. The engine oil leak I won't attempt to fix on my own. I'm targeting to get the car in for bodywork over the winter. Can address the leak when the engine comes out for that.

Pulled the left rear axle out last night. Have not pulled the right side yet as I need to double check the proper way to pull it with the locking clip. Both rear axles have a lot of grease accumulation on the outside. Inner seal on the left axle seemed intact as no fluid ran out. Regardless I will be installing new seals and bearings.

Picture of the greasy axle.



Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1959 190 SL
Calgary, AB

Edited by - GeraldK on 08/07/2017 13:49:29
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GeraldK

Canada
88 Posts

Posted - 06/23/2017 :  00:25:16  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I pulled the right axle a couple nights ago. I'm a bit confused as to the snap ring that is supposed to be on this side. I pulled the axle using a slide hammer just to the point of the bearing being exposed. From there the service manual says to pull by hand until you feel a resistance. I did not feel any resistance at all and the axle pulled straight out.

Reading the installation steps it states to coat the snap ring with grease. No snap ring came out with the axle and there does not appear to be a place for one on the axle.

Is there something I'm not understanding correctly?

Here is a picture of the two axles.



Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1959 190 SL
Calgary, AB

Edited by - GeraldK on 08/07/2017 13:50:40
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asw

Sweden
9 Posts

Posted - 06/23/2017 :  03:18:02  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi Gerald,

The snap ring wasn't introduced until model year approx. 1970 (for w108 as well as w109). You should be happy that you haven't got it since it makes withdrawal and, above all, re-insertion much easier. The snap ring was introduced for a reason, probably related to some incidents that might occur under extreme circumstances. Still, since the snap-ring free construction survived that long any problems related to it could not be that frequent. My 69 w109 has no snap ring but my 72 w108 has one (for 280s it was introduced from chassis 054213 and for 280se/sel from chassis 059186, for instance, according to Niemöller). The major PITA of removing roadsprings/airbags to be able to angle the rear axle for the ring to snap is something you should be glad to be rid of ;-)

Anders

quote:
Originally posted by GeraldK

I pulled the right axle a couple nights ago. I'm a bit confused as to the snap ring that is supposed to be on this side. I pulled the axle using a slide hammer just to the point of the bearing being exposed. From there the service manual says to pull by hand until you feel a resistance. I did not feel any resistance at all and the axle pulled straight out.

Reading the installation steps it states to coat the snap ring with grease. No snap ring came out with the axle and there does not appear to be a place for one on the axle.

Is there something I'm not understanding correctly?

Here is a picture of the two axles.



Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1959 190 SL
Calgary, AB

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GeraldK

Canada
88 Posts

Posted - 06/23/2017 :  09:39:41  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Anders for that information. I had searched through many old posts and had never come across that information. I'm definitely happy that I won't have to deal with the more complex re installation.

Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1959 190 SL
Calgary, AB
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asw

Sweden
9 Posts

Posted - 06/25/2017 :  01:51:48  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Found this. Some more info:
http://www.m-100.co/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=3233

Anders
quote:
Originally posted by GeraldK

Thanks Anders for that information. I had searched through many old posts and had never come across that information. I'm definitely happy that I won't have to deal with the more complex re installation.

Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1959 190 SL
Calgary, AB

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GeraldK

Canada
88 Posts

Posted - 07/16/2017 :  14:22:55  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Does anyone have any tips for getting the rear axles back in without the special tool for aligning the bearing? Gave it a couple tries already and didn't have any luck.

Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1959 190 SL
Calgary, AB
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GeraldK

Canada
88 Posts

Posted - 07/16/2017 :  18:09:47  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Managed to get both axles installed, just needed and extra set of hands.

On the rear I need to rebuild the brake calipers, install emergency brake shoes, brake discs and flex brake lines.

Recently completed the front sway bar bushings, rubber bump stops, front wheel bearings/seals, flex brake lines, brake discs, new bushings on the front and rear leveling valve control rods and grease the chassis (except on the drive shaft).

Car still idles a bit rough after its warmed up. I did spot another small fuel leak on the rear fuel damper. Not sure if this could be contributing to the idle issue.

I'll be moving on to troubleshooting the idle and the leak in the suspension pretty soon.

Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1959 190 SL
Calgary, AB
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GeraldK

Canada
88 Posts

Posted - 07/24/2017 :  16:13:55  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hoping for a bit of advice on my idling issue. To recap the car starts and runs very smoothly on a cold start. Revs at ~1,000 RPM until it warms up and then drops and bounces around between 400-550. Car will then end up dying. Will restart but die fairly quickly afterwards.

Latest developments are that I replaced the fuel pump and the same issue of the car dying when it gets up to temperature. I changed the fuel pump mainly for peace of mind as I wasn't sure how reliable the old pump was going to be. I went with an aftermarket pump that AgSilver recommended.

Two things I probably should have checked previously is the return fuel rate back to the tank and the oil level in the injection pump. I was fairly confident that both are ok as I filled the pump with the recommend amount of oil and could hear a fair amount of fuel returning to the tank. Nevertheless I plan to check these two items tonight.

I checked the timing at idle and its at 1-2 degrees ATDC. Was not able to check it at the 3,000 rpm range by myself and since its constantly dying after warming up.

Butterfly in the throttle body is closed completely when sitting on the stop. Same for lever on the injection pump. I've not touched the idle adjustment screw on the throttle body. The shop manual says to check timing, dwell and linkages prior to adjusting.

The plug wires seem suspect as they are not very stiff and not flexible anymore. I'm going to replace these.

I have not done any vacuum test yet.

Only items that are not back on the car are the rear calipers, empty brake fluid reservoir, A/C condenser and power steering fluid is not topped up and bled. I can't imagine these would play any role.

Appreciate any guidance that can be given.




Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1959 190 SL
Calgary, AB
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mpmorris

USA
1295 Posts

Posted - 07/24/2017 :  19:14:38  Show Profile  Visit mpmorris's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Hold on there --if the plug wires are original they are wire core and become stiff --they really don't 'wear out' --the ends sometimes need to be snipped-off so the screw of the cap connector/spark plug suppressor fits snug.

As for hot idle --probably too lean. As a base setting, your timing is ok for now.

First thing to do during the warm-up stage while you still have an idle is check to see if the 'spring-loaded' idle screw raises the idle (even during warm-up (at the top of the throttle body)). If it doesn't -you are already too lean. Shut the engine off --set the mixture clock wise ten clicks- (at the back of the pump). Be sure you have a good feel of the clicks so you know you turned it in exactly ten clicks because you will be backing this off and you need a starting point.

Now start the car up and see if it idles after warm up. If it does, then you can now go forward and set the timing to specifications, set throttle stop at throttle body (fixed screw with 10mm lock nut)(1/2 turn open from full stop (with linkage disconnected)) (make sure your dwell is correct before you set timing). Then set your idle at 650 and move forward to calibrate linkage if needed. From this point you will probably need to lean the mixture back two clicks at a time (anti-clockwise); reminder: engine off.

Now go for the best idle and what I do is disconnect the throttle linkage at the throttle body and lift the throttle butterfly independently --The idle should raise on a fully warm engine to at least 1000 rpm --if it doesn't --it is too lean --if it raises over 1500 rpm --it is too rich (lean, anti clock; rich, clockwise).

Back to the beginning --if you have a massive vacuum leak, ie. brake booster/brake booster hose --your car probably will not idle no matter what you do but since you have a working warm-up stage (good choke!) I think you are running lean --why is it so far out of adjustment? --I don't know but an incorrect fuel filter will cause this scenario (diesel filter instead of gas (they are interchangeable)(fuel supply restriction, low fuel pressure delivery).

Good Luck Gerald!

A foot note: the steering fluid must be bled before you run the engine otherwise you introduce air to the system which is really a pain to remove. --Remove the filter -fill the reservoir -open the bleed screw at the steering gear box and wait --keep filling the reservoir -and wait -fill and wait some more --do this with engine off and wheels pointed forward --you are gravity bleeding this thing and even after you see fluid out of the bleeder -bleed some more. When bled --reinstall your filter --top up the level -you have finsihed the bleeding process.

mpm


Edited by - mpmorris on 07/24/2017 19:44:24
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GeraldK

Canada
88 Posts

Posted - 07/24/2017 :  19:46:09  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks for the detailed instructions. A quick note about the injection pump is that I did have it overhauled when I took it out. Had it done at H&R in New York. Would the pump not come back with the approximate mixture setting?

I'm fairly certain the brake booster is still holding vacuum. When I replaced the master cylinder I could tell there was still vacuum even though the engine hadn't run in days.

I've never checked the dwell before. My timing light does not have this feature. My father did give me an old automotive tester that does this. Hopefully it still works. The shop manual mentions that you need to isolate the second set of points when measuring. Is this simply insert something non conductive between the points?

Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1959 190 SL
Calgary, AB
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mpmorris

USA
1295 Posts

Posted - 07/24/2017 :  19:53:11  Show Profile  Visit mpmorris's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Well, yes, presumably --should be close --if you missed a tooth upon installation, that might be the answer -as the pump could be slightly retarded --yes, a corner of a business card is what I use as an insulator
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GeraldK

Canada
88 Posts

Posted - 07/24/2017 :  19:56:12  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Great, I'll probably start working through that tonight. I may have to skip measuring the fuel delivery as the manual says this test should be done with the tank half full. I only have about 20 liters in there at the moment.

Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1959 190 SL
Calgary, AB
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GeraldK

Canada
88 Posts

Posted - 07/24/2017 :  20:41:50  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Turning the idle screw during warm up I was able to raise the rpm from about 960 to 1050. Still had a little bit left on the screw to turn out.

Do I still want to move on to adjusting the mixture on the pump based on this result?

Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1959 190 SL
Calgary, AB
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mpmorris

USA
1295 Posts

Posted - 07/25/2017 :  10:41:38  Show Profile  Visit mpmorris's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Yes --since the pump was rebuilt -it stands to reason may require some adjustment --do the ten clicks --can't hurt.
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