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GeraldK

Canada
89 Posts

Posted - 07/16/2016 :  22:14:16  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks for the tips Art.

I didn't get around to removing the radiator, compressor or power steering reservoir today. I did finally have success in removing the injection lines. Also got my fuel pump re-assembled but have done a leak test on it.

Tomorrow will attempt to get the injectors removed.



Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1958 190 SL
Calgary, AB

Edited by - GeraldK on 08/06/2017 21:41:03
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Ron B

Australia
11561 Posts

Posted - 07/19/2016 :  03:55:28  Show Profile  Visit Ron B's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by GeraldK

Short update on my progress with the car. I'm ready for re-assembly of the fuel pump. Had 2 new bearings installed on the shaft of the pump. Will do the re-assembly tomorrow and hopefully there won't be any leaks.

The injections lines are finally coming lose. I've got 6 of 8 lose at the injectors and 1 of 8 at the injection pump.

This weekend might also start removal of the radiator and possibly the air compressor and power steering reservoir. The plan is to replace any flexible fuel lines and cooling system hoses.

Is there anything to be aware of in removing the air compressor or any other items? Appears to be a straightforward unbolting procedure.



Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1958 190 SL
Calgary, AB

make sure you replace the oil flex line from the filter to the cooler and the Compressor oil line. Both will fail with old age and usually when you are miles from home . Replace the seal between the Compressor and power steer pump. Even on the W112's Mercedes recommend doing this every so often to prevent engine oil getting into the power steering. There is an O ring between the compressor and it's base. It is supposed to be a sqaure section O ring so the compressor slides over it when adjusting the belts , rather than letting it roll causing an oil leak. Be careful of the aluminium black on the adjustor bolt , it's a crap design and many are stripped. if you have trouble reaching the adjustor, check the engine mounts. When they sag the engine sits low and things like that are hard to reach . Between the bracket and the power steer pump should be a pair of tube spacers, they go against the pump,not on the outside of the bracket even though it is easier to fit them there. The pump can leak if they are in the wrong place.

quote:
12-14-2004, 11:49 PM #8
Tom Hanson
MBCA Member

What the heck, try to stuff a MB 6.9 liter V8 in it. What a machine that would be..
__________________
Tom Hanson
Orange County Section
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mpmorris

USA
1315 Posts

Posted - 07/21/2016 :  14:58:41  Show Profile  Visit mpmorris's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Ron --I can't tell you how many times I've seen those spacers on the outside of the steering pump bracket --I finally concluded they were installed that way so they wouldn't get lost
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GeraldK

Canada
89 Posts

Posted - 07/26/2016 :  00:27:17  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Over the last week I got all the injectors removed. Put them on a pop tester and none of them were stuck. All seemed to be operating at the correct pressure and had a pretty good atomization.

Also got the radiator removed. I've already contacted the classic center for replacement hoses and oil lines. There seems to be 2 part numbers for the line feeding the top of the cooler. One is over $800 US while the other is about $120 US. Looking at the picture they sent me I believe the cheaper one is the one I need. Anyone have the correct part number? I don't believe I know the motor number.

Reading some previous threads on the forum I've seen the recommendation to replace the 2 cooling elbows feeding the front left and right heads.

Finally I removed the air compressor. I believe that o ring was leaking based on the amount of sludge build up underneath it.

Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1958 190 SL
Calgary, AB
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Hendrik

Germany
26 Posts

Posted - 07/27/2016 :  08:02:18  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
here´s a pic of the numbers




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Hendrik

Germany
26 Posts

Posted - 07/27/2016 :  08:06:07  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I see that the pic is not that clear - the motor-# is on the top end of the engine next to passenger cabin
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1960mog

USA
42 Posts

Posted - 07/29/2016 :  13:21:06  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi

$800 for a oil cooler line?
On the 6.3 I am working on, the hose in the oil cooler line can be replaced.
Here is a pic of the setup.



If you have the same setup, just unscrew the hose from the metal line and replace it with 1/2' oil cooler hose from the auto parts store.

78 6.9 #4084
79 6.9 #6669
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Ron B

Australia
11561 Posts

Posted - 07/31/2016 :  07:00:12  Show Profile  Visit Ron B's Homepage  Reply with Quote
yep! always reuse those fittings and never let a hose repair place near them unless they know what they are .I have seen plenty of butchered fittings cut up to remove them .And if you can use metric hoses although they are damned hard to find outside Germany

quote:
12-14-2004, 11:49 PM #8
Tom Hanson
MBCA Member

What the heck, try to stuff a MB 6.9 liter V8 in it. What a machine that would be..
__________________
Tom Hanson
Orange County Section
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GeraldK

Canada
89 Posts

Posted - 07/31/2016 :  09:56:37  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
It does look I have those fittings. I will hopefully try removing them in the next few days. I have some clean up to do first as there's a bit of oil build up in the area.



Does the o-ring between the power steering reservoir and the pump tend to fail? There was a fair bit of oil build up there as you can see in the picture. I already plan to replace the other two o-rings that were previously mentioned.



Also had both issues with the spacers mounted on the wrong side of the power steering pump bracket and the aluminum block being stripped. I re tapped the block but one of the bolts doesn't grab much thread. Do you usually replace with another aluminum block or are there other options?

Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1958 190 SL
Calgary, AB

Edited by - GeraldK on 08/06/2017 21:43:39
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1960mog

USA
42 Posts

Posted - 07/31/2016 :  10:35:01  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Repair the thread with TimeSert. I use it for all my thread repair, because it is a solid bushing insert, not a lose coil of wire like Helicoil.
Or you can make a new block, it's just aluminum.

78 6.9 #4084
79 6.9 #6669
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AgSilver

USA
226 Posts

Posted - 07/31/2016 :  12:45:12  Show Profile  Visit AgSilver's Homepage  Reply with Quote
There is a specialty company in the West Palm Beach area that can do it all and they stock metric sizes. http://makohose.com/


300SEL 6.3
E55 AMG
CLK63 AMG Gone
Ferrari 400GTC4
ML400CDI BiTurbo
ML350 CDI BT
9146GT
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GeraldK

Canada
89 Posts

Posted - 08/07/2016 :  23:01:02  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Making slow progress with the car. I've been working towards getting the injection pump removed. I've managed to get the left (in the direction of travel) intake manifold removed. Now I've got a couple of questions regarding removing the pump itself.

How do you go about actual removal of the pump? I see 4 nuts at the front of the pump which I've managed to get loose. The rear appears to be fastened down with 2 hex head bolts. Is this a 5mm head? It seems the pump has been removed previously and these bolts are rounded off.

I also read that it's a good idea to remove the pump at the 60 degree mark indicated at the crankshaft in order to see if the pump was properly timed. How exactly can you see this?



Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1958 190 SL
Calgary, AB
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james lawson

USA
1278 Posts

Posted - 08/08/2016 :  00:50:46  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I believe the pump is supposed to be secured with two allen bolts, at least the ones I have seen.
The 60 degree mark is on the crankshaft pulley, you have to mark it with some paint or chalk to see it very well. I marked it from under the car. Then you line it up on the pointer just like you would for TDC by rotating the crank. With the plugs removed you can put a good 19mm wrench on the air compressor nut, or if everything is out of the way use the crankshaft nut.
You have to be very careful not to bend any of the pipes.
The nuts are 13mm.
Make sure to replace the return fuel hose behind the pump. These collapse and cause all sorts of fun.
There is a removable metal collar on the splined shaft of the pump, be careful with it. it just slides off. I don't know if it is possible for it to fall into the engine. You align the timing marks on the pump and then slide the collar on when you reinstall the pump.
There is a gasket and some sort of fiber spacer where the pump joins the block. The spacer sometimes crumbles.
Hope this helps

jim
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Art Love

Australia
6160 Posts

Posted - 08/08/2016 :  08:09:34  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Why are you taking the fuel injection pump off? You are correct regarding having the timing absolutely correct. But there must be a reason to remove the pump in the first place. These pumps are incredibly durable, so, unless you know that it has a problem, I would suggest you leave it alone until you know it is faulty and concentrate on replacing hoses, fluids and other components that deteriorate with age.

The pleasure of the car is in driving it. If you pull it to bits, that will not happen. Keep it as intact as you can and get it running, otherwise you will spend a fortune and become disillusioned with a non functioning car in pieces. If you have a good reason to remove the pump, then so be it, but let us know what it is and we will try to assist.
Art
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GeraldK

Canada
89 Posts

Posted - 08/08/2016 :  09:20:26  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The pump is the last component that I planned to pull off the car. I'm fairly certain that the pump is leaking from one of the seals as there is a fair amount of oil underneath the pump. Also with the pump having been sitting idle for 15 years I figured I might as well just remove it and have it serviced.

I'm a little skeptical on the quality of the work that was done when the pump was previously removed. One of the four nuts at the front of the pump was not tight at all and the one Allen bolts seems to be rounded off inside.

With that said the plan is to replace all the components that Art mentioned. I've got all the fuel lines already including the one at the rear of the engine. This week I will have new radiator hoses, belts, transmission oil cooler lines and some o-rings for my leaking air compressor/power steering pump sent from the classic center.

Some of these parts seem like they're only accessible when everything else is removed around them.

Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1958 190 SL
Calgary, AB
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