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GeraldK

Canada
88 Posts

Posted - 08/30/2017 :  12:03:48  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Ron, I did see your fuel tank post but unfortunately I had attempted to re seal it a week or two prior.

The replacement fuel filter I installed yesterday made no difference. I have not done any pressure test on the fuel delivery. I will check the fuel return volume at the return line at the back of the car in the next few days. I will add more fuel to the tank for this as there's only 1/4 full and they recommend this test with the tank 1/2 full. I'm curious to see if the volume has increased with the replacement filter.

The only items on the fuel system that has not been replaced are the metal lines and the 2 fuel dampers. Metal lines I blew through with compressed air. Are the dampers ever prone to failure? I've not come across this in the forum at all.

With the ignition I've only checked timing while it is idling under its warm up phase. Timing appeared correct, approximately 2 degrees ATDC. Most ignition components should be in good shape, I have a new condenser but have not installed it yet. The one currently on there had broken insulation on the wire right where it connects to the condenser. I had only put some silicon on it for insulation. The old condenser had a mounting bracket attached to it but the new one doesn't. Not sure if condensers need a good mount to ground. I can't imagine this is the cause of my problems as the motor does run smooth while warming up.

Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1959 190 SL
Calgary, AB
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Ron B

Australia
11545 Posts

Posted - 08/30/2017 :  17:37:33  Show Profile  Visit Ron B's Homepage  Reply with Quote
you need to test the volume at the RH cold start valve at the front that will eliminate the return damper as a damper problem .i have only ever seen one damper blocked but that is not too say it cannot happen. It's very basic device with a pin and a diaphragm.What you should do is connect an aux. tank back by the pump, then check your volume at the front to eliminate the tank as a problem . if filling the tank to half fixes it, you have a blocked swirl pot because all that is happening is the fuel is going over the top of the swirl pot and filling it. Imagine it like the bell mouth spill way on a dam, but once you use the fuel to level of the top of the spill way, you are back to square one .
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GeraldK

Canada
88 Posts

Posted - 08/30/2017 :  18:18:56  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Fuel tank is no longer a problem as I replaced it after my failed attempt at sealing it or maybe I sealed it too well! I fill the tank to 1/2 and check the volume again.

When you say the RH valve is this facing the car or from sitting in the drivers seat?

Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1959 190 SL
Calgary, AB
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GeraldK

Canada
88 Posts

Posted - 09/01/2017 :  14:58:09  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I borrowed a fuel pressure tester from a local parts store but it turned out to be defective and was unable to get a reading. I will have to get another pressure tester to complete this testing.

Fuel tank is now about 3/4 full and volume at the RH (passenger side of LH drive car) valve is about 800-900ml in 15 seconds. Volume at the return line at the fuel tank is about half of above. Is this a potential problem with the return damper or return line?

Did some investigation of the ignition system. I have a coil with Bosch part number 0 221 119 030 and a Beru ballast resistor WZ 09. My technical data book lists a different part number for the coil but I do believe it is the correct one. It has a reading of 1.4 ohms on the primary.

The ballast resistor appears to be incorrect as it states its for coils with a yellow sticker with a rating of 0.85 - 0.95 ohms. I believe the correct resistor for the coil should have a rating of 1.8 ohms.

Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1959 190 SL
Calgary, AB
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mpmorris

USA
1296 Posts

Posted - 09/01/2017 :  19:04:55  Show Profile  Visit mpmorris's Homepage  Reply with Quote
--
Just as a thought, as it is possible for the car to run but low pressure --I saw it on a 113 --the car would run cold but die out --would restart --but not idle --exactly your symptoms-- -are the fuel pump wires reversed? brown to ground (left side lug on the fuel pump).

Edited by - mpmorris on 09/01/2017 19:06:42
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GeraldK

Canada
88 Posts

Posted - 09/01/2017 :  20:00:36  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I have an aftermarket pump with coloured leads installed at the moment so the polarity should be correct. When I had the original pump installed I had the brown on the right lug as that's how it was hooked up when I removed it. I was thinking of trying the original pump again now that I've fixed the fuel tank and fuel filter. Hopefully I'll get the pressure test done tomorrow.

Will keep you posted and appreciate the continued help!

Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1959 190 SL
Calgary, AB
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Ron B

Australia
11545 Posts

Posted - 09/01/2017 :  21:59:03  Show Profile  Visit Ron B's Homepage  Reply with Quote
The larger terminal is the ground or earth connection, there should be two different size lugs .
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mpmorris

USA
1296 Posts

Posted - 09/05/2017 :  11:13:13  Show Profile  Visit mpmorris's Homepage  Reply with Quote
The original 'short pump' has the same diameter lugs.
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GeraldK

Canada
88 Posts

Posted - 09/05/2017 :  12:15:56  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I confirmed the electrical connection with the wiring diagram. If I remember correctly Terminal 30 on the left is the positive and Terminal 31 on the right is ground.

I have some further data on the fuel volume. With my original pump installed I'm getting the following fuel volumes in 15 seconds:

Outlet of pump - 2L
Inlet hose to fuel filter - 1.8L
Outlet of fuel filter - 1.3L

I'm planning to continue testing the volume through the complete system and repeat the tests with my aftermarket fuel pump. I was able to blow through the front fuel damper with no noticeable resistance. Losing 0.5L of fuel volume through the filter seems pretty high.

Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1959 190 SL
Calgary, AB
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GeraldK

Canada
88 Posts

Posted - 09/18/2017 :  17:20:11  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
A couple weekends back I was finally able to achieve the required fuel volumes. With a change of the fuel filter to one from MB and my aftermarket pump installed I recorded the following results:

2.2L output of pump
1.9L output of filter
1.8L output of MFIP
1.1L at Tee to CSV's
1L at left CSV
1.1L at return line of tank
Fuel pressure 12 psi at left CSV

Also replaced the ballast resistor with the correct part. 1.8 ohm resistor vs 0.9 ohm that was on the car.

After achieving the above flow rates I still ended up with the same idling issue after warm up. I was about ready to give up at this point and took a week off from working on it.

On Friday I decided to try Michaels suggestion again of setting the mixture forward 10 clicks on the pump. The car now finally stays running. I will still need to work through the remainder of the steps including checking dwell, timing and setting air/fuel mixtures correctly. For now I'm happy that it finally stays running.

Gerald
1969 300 SEL 6.3 #0795
1959 190 SL
Calgary, AB
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AgSilver

USA
207 Posts

Posted - 09/19/2017 :  09:57:22  Show Profile  Visit AgSilver's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Gerald - - -

You may want to consider converting the Bosch dual-point distributor to an optical trigger system such as offered by Crane (fully compatible with the Bosch coil). Truly a "set it and forget it system."

http://www.cranecams.com/404-405.pdf

Steve

Palm Beach Gardens, FL
Niederheimbach, Germany
300SEL 6.3
E55K AMG
CLK63 AMG Gone
Ferrari 400GTC4 Gone
ML400CDI BiTurbo
ML350 CDI BT
9146GT
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