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mpmorris

USA
1369 Posts

Posted - 05/22/2018 :  15:46:11  Show Profile  Visit mpmorris's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Personally, I do not use braided brake lines --maybe for track use to prevent excess expansion of the hose under heavy load but i think they would restrict the dissipation of temperature. I prefer the stock DOT rubber hoses (ATE) simply because when they look old, they are old and need to be replaced --a stainless hose could look new but ready to fail

mpm
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Art Love

Australia
6238 Posts

Posted - 05/22/2018 :  22:01:38  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I can't see anything wrong with the way the rear valve is set up to explain the excessive rear ride height.
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paul-NL

Netherlands
4290 Posts

Posted - 05/23/2018 :  04:06:06  Show Profile  Reply with Quote

could also be wrongly connected lines at the main-air-valve ...
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joeuserus

Canada
53 Posts

Posted - 05/24/2018 :  14:34:04  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
That would be the valve under the hood??

Could a leak inside of the rear valve cause it to overfill??

1970 300SEL 6.3
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paul-NL

Netherlands
4290 Posts

Posted - 05/24/2018 :  16:07:03  Show Profile  Reply with Quote

yes the valve under the hood.





I think you could have switched the CROSSOVER connections to the copper-coloured connections

Theorethicly is could be an internal leaking axlevalve BUT praticly I don't believe so ...

Edited by - paul-NL on 05/24/2018 16:29:10
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joeuserus

Canada
53 Posts

Posted - 05/24/2018 :  21:28:02  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thx I'll take a look to see if it was switch before hand. I haven't touched the lines though.

1970 300SEL 6.3
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joeuserus

Canada
53 Posts

Posted - 06/04/2018 :  22:32:14  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
My lines run down towards the engine bay. Is there a diagram of where the lines should go and how I figure out if they're switched??





1970 300SEL 6.3
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paul-NL

Netherlands
4290 Posts

Posted - 06/05/2018 :  00:17:59  Show Profile  Reply with Quote




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mpmorris

USA
1369 Posts

Posted - 06/05/2018 :  10:06:11  Show Profile  Visit mpmorris's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Looking back at your pictures --that rear air valve is the crustiest air valve I've ever seen and I notice one mounting bolt is backed out and appears the mounting bracket has been welded? --my thought is the rear air valve is stuck internally or it is not positioned correctly. for testing purposes, I would loosen the u-clamp on the sway bar, swing the u-clamp down a bit until the car is at normal ride height-- !! Do Not Do This Without Sufficient Supports Under Car!! -then put the ride height controller in full height position to see if the rear now rises to full height. Also --I notice the front is low in all of your pictures --this might be caused by stiff front suspension joints (lack of a thorough grease job) --as a temporary measure --you can raise the air delivery pressure by adjusting the the fill pressure on the main air valve horizontal screw by loosening the lock nut and turning the screw head clockwise -say three full turns --with this extra pressure, you should see the front rise --(please note exactly how much you turn that screw so you can re-set to original setting.
mpm
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daantjie

Canada
1065 Posts

Posted - 06/05/2018 :  12:20:14  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I have a NOS rear valve I can sell you if interested. PM me if you like.

Daniel
1977 450 SEL 6.9
Vancouver, BC

Edited by - daantjie on 06/05/2018 12:20:50
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joeuserus

Canada
53 Posts

Posted - 06/14/2018 :  11:46:55  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by mpmorris

Looking back at your pictures --that rear air valve is the crustiest air valve I've ever seen and I notice one mounting bolt is backed out and appears the mounting bracket has been welded? --my thought is the rear air valve is stuck internally or it is not positioned correctly. for testing purposes, I would loosen the u-clamp on the sway bar, swing the u-clamp down a bit until the car is at normal ride height-- !! Do Not Do This Without Sufficient Supports Under Car!! -then put the ride height controller in full height position to see if the rear now rises to full height. Also --I notice the front is low in all of your pictures --this might be caused by stiff front suspension joints (lack of a thorough grease job) --as a temporary measure --you can raise the air delivery pressure by adjusting the the fill pressure on the main air valve horizontal screw by loosening the lock nut and turning the screw head clockwise -say three full turns --with this extra pressure, you should see the front rise --(please note exactly how much you turn that screw so you can re-set to original setting.
mpm




Ya there's a lot of rust proofing on the valve. I too believe it is stuck open, or the seal inside is bad.

Could I lift up the front of the car with the jack while the suspension is filling with air and then take away the jack? Should it stay up?? Could that work better than adjusting the pressure??

1970 300SEL 6.3
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Art Love

Australia
6238 Posts

Posted - 06/14/2018 :  19:25:03  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
You can try it if you can get a jack under the front in a safe place. It will probably go down again, but while it is up, you may wish to chock it up with either the original front suspension chocks or some small pieces of lumber between the upper and lower control arms.
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