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werminghausen
USA
551 Posts |
 Posted - 04/02/2012 : 10:10:04
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Chris
Here comes some math.
The cam shaft at the keys is 28mm, radius is then 14mm.
Offset keys I have have an offset of 0.7mm.
If I am imagining the triangle 14mm (hypotenuse) and offset 0.7mm (offset)....with sine = opposite / hypotenuse
sine = 0.05 ....inv. sine= 2.865 degrees.
If this is true the 0.7mm offset key is creating a 2.9 degree offset at cam = 5.7 degrees offset at crank.....
Can anyone confirm this?
If true I have the perfect key to offset the 5 degrees at crank (3 degrees retard plus 2 for future stretch)I need?
i have another (single) offset key of 0.4mm.
sine = 0.0286 ....inv. sine= 1.637 degrees offset at cam
= 3.27 degrees at crank
So now the question from what I have.
1) would you install the two 0.7mm offset keys on the right cam sprocket where I am reading the 3 degree (crank) retard?
2) would you install the 0.4mm offset at left cam where I am pretty perfect at zero retard. Probably not because a 3 degree offset needs a very long time (too many miles. And then it might be easier to install a new chain again.
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Chris Johnson
USA
3550 Posts |
Posted - 04/02/2012 : 11:44:56
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Martin, I agree with your math. I would install the 0.7mm key in the right cam but leave the straight key in the left cam.
And I would also replace the chain the next time the keys are no longer adequate.
Chris Johnson
If you aren't constantly impressed with your car, then it needs fixing.
100.012-12-000867
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Edited by - Chris Johnson on 04/02/2012 11:45:41 |
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werminghausen
USA
551 Posts |
Posted - 04/02/2012 : 12:44:20
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quote:
Originally posted by Chris Johnson
Martin, I agree with your math. I would install the 0.7mm key in the right cam but leave the straight key in the left cam.
And I would also replace the chain the next time the keys are no longer adequate.
Chris Johnson
If you aren't constantly impressed with your car, then it needs fixing.
100.012-12-000867
Thanks Chris, I got it. I will install 0.7mm offset keys. Do you think I can remove the sprocket with the tensioner in place by depressing the tensioner rails?
I was adjusting play for the exhaust valves today. Couldn't find the
0.08mm gauge for the intake valves. Does it matter if it is 0.08mm or 0.1mm? I could adjust to 0.1mm and the close the gap slightly.
I guess step 3 for torquing the head bolts (50 to 60 Nm) doesn't really affect valve clearances.
Thanks again, Martin
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paul-NL
Netherlands
3109 Posts |
Posted - 04/02/2012 : 13:02:41
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Hi Werner, 0.1 mm for the inletvalves is okee and 0.2 for the outletvalves.
But be aware, that on cilinder 4 and 5 the inlet and the outlet have switched locations on its places .... See the injectors .... |
Edited by - paul-NL on 04/02/2012 13:19:08 |
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werminghausen
USA
551 Posts |
Posted - 04/02/2012 : 14:20:00
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Hi Paul,
thanks, I can see where the intake and exhaust are...(injectors and exhaust manifold), anyhow good point.
Martin |
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Gael
687 Posts |
Posted - 04/03/2012 : 10:40:40
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you can use only one offset key for the sprocket. You will need to file it a bit for the part that goes under the spacer behind the sprocket. This is how I did it on My 5.0L. Result is that the mark on the camshaft still indicates true timing.
0.1 for intake is OK, make it a bit tight. Look at the exhaust manifolds. Exhaust valves are in front of the exhaust ports.
Draw the 16 valves on a paper. Then turn the engine with a 27mm socket and adjust valves each time a lobe is pointing opposite the rocker. Tick the valve on the paper. This way you adjust all the valves in only two engine rotations.
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Edited by - Gael on 04/03/2012 10:42:27 |
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werminghausen
USA
551 Posts |
Posted - 04/03/2012 : 10:59:37
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Gael,
thanks, I can try the trick with using only one offset key at sprocket and one straight for the mark. Great idea to have the offset shown at the mark.
I'll try the 2 rotation trick for valve adjustment.
Best, Martin |
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mthomas
USA
797 Posts |
Posted - 04/03/2012 : 11:10:26
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Another trick is to make 16 small pieces of tape, write an "I" on 8 and an "E" on the other 8 pieces.
then stick them to the cam oiler tube in the appropriate locations just above the cam lobes in "I"ntake and "E"xhaust locations.
after you adjust each lobe, pull off the tape...it will tell you what valves are left as well as what feeler to use...no losing track and the minimum engine rotations.
Mike
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Gael
687 Posts |
Posted - 04/03/2012 : 11:10:43
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| Also, take all your spark plugs out when adjusting the valves. Will make your life easier |
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werminghausen
USA
551 Posts |
Posted - 04/03/2012 : 13:21:31
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ATF filler tuber:
I just saw that I forgot to install the ATF tube. I took it off when I removed the right side cylinder head. The filler tube has a bracket fixed at one of the cylinder head bolts I believe.
Question: Is it a problem if I have to open up one cylinder head bolt for the ATF filler tube and then torque it again to 50Nm?
Martin |
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werminghausen
USA
551 Posts |
Posted - 04/03/2012 : 13:24:24
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quote:
Originally posted by mthomas
Another trick is to make 16 small pieces of tape, write an "I" on 8 and an "E" on the other 8 pieces.
then stick them to the cam oiler tube in the appropriate locations just above the cam lobes in "I"ntake and "E"xhaust locations.
after you adjust each lobe, pull off the tape...it will tell you what valves are left as well as what feeler to use...no losing track and the minimum engine rotations.
Mike
Great suggestion! I love learning simple things. |
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werminghausen
USA
551 Posts |
Posted - 04/03/2012 : 13:25:29
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quote:
Originally posted by Gael
Also, take all your spark plugs out when adjusting the valves. Will make your life easier
I have them all out....much easier. |
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Chris Johnson
USA
3550 Posts |
Posted - 04/03/2012 : 14:16:16
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It is no problem loosening just the one head bolt. In fact, you will have to do this to every one of the head bolts (one at a time) when you go back to set the "warm" torque on them.
Chris Johnson
If you aren't constantly impressed with your car, then it needs fixing.
100.012-12-000867
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werminghausen
USA
551 Posts |
Posted - 04/03/2012 : 23:41:01
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quote:
Originally posted by Chris Johnson
It is no problem loosening just the one head bolt. In fact, you will have to do this to every one of the head bolts (one at a time) when you go back to set the "warm" torque on them.
Chris Johnson
If you aren't constantly impressed with your car, then it needs fixing.
100.012-12-000867
Hi Chris,
are you saying that I will 'loosen' each head bolt slightly (according the order) before I'll torque it in the final step to 60Nm with the engine warm? |
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Gael
687 Posts |
Posted - 04/04/2012 : 05:14:49
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| Yes. Usually when you retorque a head you loosen the bolt by 90 degrees and retorque to the required value. One by one (ie you don't loosen them all and then retorque them all). |
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Topic |
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300SEL 3.5: cylinderhead install
