| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| Ron B |
Posted - 04/24/2007 : 21:12:02
I've just wandered dowen to the neibours where they are fixing the body on Arts 300SEL W112.If go you back a few pages there are pics of this car with another W111 on top.
...There are old cars,and then there are Classics..(Mercedes Benz Ad. 1999) |
| 15 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| Ron B |
Posted - 04/28/2012 : 18:36:12
quote:
Originally posted by Art Love
Jeeeeeeez Ron,
Is there anyone in NZ to whom you are NOT related   . I thought I detected a slight NZ twang yesterday. I shall ask him for you when he gets back to me about some carpet and leather stuff.
Art
I sent the email to Jo, There is a Gary Moltzen in NZ but not the same guy...ha ha. As for relatives,I have a huge family connection in NZ going back to First Maori King and in Australia I am related directly to a huge family base in the Hunter Valley ,Inverell and Lismore areas .VFL footballer Bob Cazeleys Grandmother was my GG grandmother..ha ha . There are thousands of us,Yet the Bunting part of the family is tiny but includes all of us decended from Jabez Bunting DD of the Methodist Church.
 quote:
12-14-2004, 11:49 PM #8
Tom Hanson
MBCA Member
What the heck, try to stuff a MB 6.9 liter V8 in it. What a machine that would be..
__________________
Tom Hanson
Orange County Section
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| Art Love |
Posted - 04/28/2012 : 04:37:00
Ron,
I've confirmed he is from NZ. Been here for a very long time. I'll send you his contact details for your cousin by e.mail.
Art |
| Art Love |
Posted - 01/06/2012 : 19:29:40
Jeeeeeeez Ron,
Is there anyone in NZ to whom you are NOT related. I thought I detected a slight NZ twang yesterday. I shall ask him for you when he gets back to me about some carpet and leather stuff.
Art |
| Ron B |
Posted - 01/06/2012 : 19:18:53
Way off topic... but Moltzen you say?
It's an Unusual name and my late uncle John and family (and his sister) were the only Moltzens in New Zealand . The Family came from Denmark originally. My cousin JoAnne may like to Contract him to see if there is a family Connection .
quote:
12-14-2004, 11:49 PM #8
Tom Hanson
MBCA Member
What the heck, try to stuff a MB 6.9 liter V8 in it. What a machine that would be..
__________________
Tom Hanson
Orange County Section
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| Ian Keers |
Posted - 01/06/2012 : 04:53:26
Looks a superb job Art, he is obviously a master at his job.
Ian Keers
United Kingdom |
| Art Love |
Posted - 01/06/2012 : 02:06:07
This morning, Garry Moltzen the very experienced upholsterer who made the hood lining and has done all the work in Justin's 6.3 came over to see if he could reinstall the hood liner. We took it and the underlying felt back out after the car went under in the floods 12 months ago. Cheryll and I laundered the hood liner! It has been lying in a heap ever since. Once I had Garry booked, I put it back on its bows and lay it out over the roof of the car over Christmas. Some members have enquired about installing hood liners in 109's. This is a W112, but the principles are all the same. Simplifying this job was the absence of a sunroof.
I always enjoy watching a true professional work. He made everything look easy and the end result looks as good as it did the first time. It took him probably a fifth of the time I would have taken to do the job. I am very pleased and we have managed to salvage the hood liner.
He started by cleaning out the remnants of the previous felt dome pad and foam pieces from around the C pillars and above the rear window and doors with a wire brush and then replaced those components. He then laid the hood liner out and sprayed contact around the margins. He then started at the rear bow in front of the rear window. In the Finnie, there are 2 brackets that come forwards from the rear window frame to support that bow. He then installed the bows working forwards.
Then he got a contact glue can with a brush on it and brushed contact adhesive around the metal edges of the front and rear winscreens, the C pillars, the tops of the door openings and the tops of the A and B pillars. He brought some clamps that he used at this stage. He started in the middle at the front, then the middle at the back and then in each of the door openings, exactly opposite the ends of the bows. After pulling the hood liner out to those reference points (which determined that it had not shrunk and was reusable, he worked his way around the window frames, the C pillars, the A pillars and the B pillars folding the edge of the liner. Whatever the contact adhesive is that he uses, it is excellent with great adhesion, the ability to make adjustments and adequate working time. Finally, I got out the old edge guard that he had left when he did the hoodliner on one of the 6.3's years ago and he put it onto the edges to keep some pressure, knowing that it would be a month of Sundays before I got the windscreens and door windlace in.
Art |
| Art Love |
Posted - 01/06/2012 : 01:32:37
I'm finally back at this project. I've started on the wood, a fair bit of which went under in the flood. I'm armed with my sandpaper and am trying to put together a full set. According to the timber repair man, this is oak. So I am trying to put together a full set in oak. The bit that goes below the glove box door from the car is delaminated and disintegrated and although I paid for a "full set" from someone, that bit wasn't included. At least it can be fabricated and is barely visible. I can't even find the equivalent bit from the white rust bucket 300SE donor (which had more fancy wood) or the 220SE donor to use for a pattern. In the picture, you can see that I am part way through the dash and have work to do on the front windscreen frame.
Art |
| Ron B |
Posted - 10/23/2011 : 18:09:46
You are right about rectum bandits. With W108 parts being easy to come by,why steal parts from people who Lost out in the Floods??????
quote:
12-14-2004, 11:49 PM #8
Tom Hanson
MBCA Member
What the heck, try to stuff a MB 6.9 liter V8 in it. What a machine that would be..
__________________
Tom Hanson
Orange County Section
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| Art Love |
Posted - 10/22/2011 : 21:09:00
I'm resurrecting this old thread because I shall be getting back into it now the weather is a bit warmer and I have accumulated some needed parts. I have spent a lot of time and money in the meantime looking for and getting "missing" parts. Justin and I have completely stripped the donor 300SE and the rusty shell is gone to the metal recyclers as I posted elsewhere. I made several visits to Wolf's shed looking for missing parts without success.
About a month ago, my son Peter decided to disassemble his shelving in my shed at Rocklea - the one that was inundated in the floods in January. He found a milk crate that I had somehow missed that had the "missing" essential parts for this car that I had spent hours here at home and in Wolf's shed looking for. The crate still had flood water in the bottom. I had been through that shed many times since the floods and failed to see it. So my frustrations regarding those parts are resolved and I am in a position to finally restart.
I call in periodically to keep an eye on things at Rocklea because the house is uninhabitable and liable to vandalism and theft. When I called in this week, I found some a**ehole has stolen the windscreen alloy surrounds from one of the remaining donor cars as well as a couple of the side rubbing strips. They have cut the moulding out of the rubber and taken the lower strips, even drilled out the rivets and taken the retaining clips. The consequences of that flood in January are ongoing!
Art |
| Ron B |
Posted - 04/26/2011 : 17:56:07
I know what you mean about mud,I spent the morning in German wrecking's yard looking for a fuel pump which hasn't been under water . Found one on a car which came from the UK so the pump was covered in a thick layer of rust preventative and the tank was full of fuel,the car was also the top car on a stack three high.
quote:
12-14-2004, 11:49 PM #8
Tom Hanson
MBCA Member
What the heck, try to stuff a MB 6.9 liter V8 in it. What a machine that would be..
__________________
Tom Hanson
Orange County Section
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| Art Love |
Posted - 04/25/2011 : 23:09:08
Thanks Ron,
As long as people looking at it understand that this is a vascular surgeon trying to put this old car back together, not an expert. The W112 has a lot of similarities to the W109's I am more familiar with, as well as quite a lot of differences. I'm rather hoping that someone will say "Don't do it that way, do it this way because it is a lot better."
There have been questions on the forum about replacing door seals on 6.3's and I would repeat what I said the last time I recall responding that as long as you use genuine factory seals, it is a straightforward enterprise that does not require glueing the rubber. On the W112, there are metal channels, like on the W109 that retain the seal except down the front edge where there are a series of plastic clips. On the W109, there is also a rail that the clips go through, but I don't seem to have an equivalent rail in this car in my bits and I can't see one listed in the Parts Manual.
All these pictures are of the left front door which is the one I am pricipally working on. First picture is of the front top corner. The seal fits in the door channel under that chrome garnish which covers the door frame. I had the painter leave that chrome on all the doors because it is firmly glue to the frame and easilly buckled and damaged taking it off.
Next picture is the top rear corner.
This is the lower half of the rear of the door. I just pushed the seal into the metal groove with my fingers. A plastic spatular or wedge would be good as well. Now you can see that the car has been under 10 feet of muddy water - I've got more cleaning to do .
Now we are looking forward under the door from the rear. You can see the bulk of the seal where the channelling doesn't exist just at the corner. You can also see a lot of silt from the flood .
Final picture is of the front edge of the door at the bottom of the quarter window to show the section which is held on with plastic clips. You can see the top 2 clip holes. I've not put the clips in yet.
Art |
| Ron B |
Posted - 04/25/2011 : 19:07:15
Art,it's probably the ONLY article of it's type on the web,at least i have never seen it anywhere including the Germans who generally have lots of interesting stuff. Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
quote:
12-14-2004, 11:49 PM #8
Tom Hanson
MBCA Member
What the heck, try to stuff a MB 6.9 liter V8 in it. What a machine that would be..
__________________
Tom Hanson
Orange County Section
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| Art Love |
Posted - 04/25/2011 : 04:08:41
I did a bit more today that I shall share with those interested. Found my spare right window out of the 220 that was on the roof of the LWB car at the wreckers. I'd forgotten that someone had tried to lever the window open with a screw driver and the rear edge of the glass is damaged - pity. Anyway, I got the old rubber out with less trouble than I had had with the left one which was rock hard and had to come out in multiple small pieces. I don't know how you get these old rubbers out, but I found my trusty Snap On hooked spike to be effective.
I got Cheryll to take that one as she went by. To get the corners out, I used brute strength, of which I have little. I was lucky and it came out. On the left side a week or so ago, it just kept breaking.
Then I got on with putting the new rubber in. You need a reasonably fine edged wedge to get the edges of the rubber profile into the groove. A plastic wedge is the best. I didn't have one that I could find and I used a short broad flat bladed screwdriver. On this occasion, I decided to try gently using a vice grip to push the rubber home and it worked better than I thought it would.
Fingers on one side and thumbs on the other also worked. I used a little rubber grease on this one and it seemed to be a bit easier - I do not believe I am getting better at it.
See that waviness in the edge of the rubber. That is because I have the tension wrong. I found that the most difficult thing to get right after the difficulty of just getting the rubber into the channel. I just worked the rubber firmly towards each end of the channel with my fingers and thumbs until the waviness smoothed out. Stronger hands would help.
Then it is a case of putting the glass in which is easier with the new soft rubber that it is to get it out in the first place with rock hard old rubber.
Then I decided to put the left front quarter widow assembly in. To do that, you have to turn the drive mechanism till it is at a right angle to the door to slot the window shaft into the mechanism. That is why I have the knob on the mechanism. Here are a couple of views showing what I mean. You'll notice that the chrome is far from perfect, but in this rebuild, that is how it will be. I'll do some more cleaning as time goes by. A lot of this stuff went under in the flood and I'm still trying to sort out what is missing from the restoration shop as well, so putting things together that are not difficult to get apart is one way of finding out.
Once the glass frame drive shaft is in the slot in the mechanism, the whole thing has to be turned through 90 degrees to insert the hex head bolt that holds them together.
Here it is looking down. That stuff in the threads for the window retaining bolts is antisieze grease. They have to line up as do the two bolt holes at the top of the window. In a W109, there is only one screw at the top. In this top view, you can see that the retaining plate at the top of the window is not aligned. I used the same Snap On spike to do that.
Then I put the two small bolts in with their washers.
Then when you apply the door seal, it makes sense as to why there is a small house in the rubber of the seal. It accommodates the bolt heads.
To line up the hole in the window shaft with the holes in the drive mechanism, I found that one of my short Phillips head screwdrivers was a perfect fit. The taper of the Phillips head acted as an alignment tool. Unless both pieces are perfectly aligned, the Hex head bolt won't go through.
Then in goes the bolt.
I have not yet put in the lower retaining bolts for the window, because I'm waiting on some new ones from Tom along with the spring washers.
Art |
| Art Love |
Posted - 04/24/2011 : 05:49:13
I hope other people do dumb things. I've been replacing the old quarter window rubbers with new ones and installing the quarter windows. Here are the rear ones. Replacing these rubbers is not too bad.
I found those nice little retaining clips in a plastic bag that I had marked when I pulled the car apart so long ago. At least they are not lost like a pile of other stuff seems to be.
I had replaced what I thought was the driver's (right) front vent window rubber a week or too ago and this afternoon, decided to do the left. This is not a job I find easy or pleasant, and if any of you know some tricks to make it easier, I would be pleased if you would enlighten me. I got the old rubber out with a lot less trouble than I had with the one I did before and set about putting the new rubber in.
This is after I had spent an hour or more putting it in and pulling it out again. The sharp eyed will see why I am dumb. It is a right hand frame and a left hand rubber, something I only noticed when I was 99% finished. Checked the one I did before and it is the left one.
 [br
I'm pretty much set up to put the left one in.
Shame I had 2 left side windows. I only have one right one because when I got the car from the wreckers, someone had destroyed the right one. Now I need to find the spare and do the job again
That is pretty dumb
Art |
| Art Love |
Posted - 04/12/2011 : 08:33:04
The problem is to find one of each of the 3 which still work or can be rebuilt. I have had 2 of the 3 rebuilt and tested. The rebuilder could not repair the third, but I have 2 more that I can try, plus possibly 3 or 6 more from a friend who bought a 300SE from me in the past and is not using them. Hopefully I shall end up with 3 that work to keep the car as original as possible. I don't know at this stage because I am a long way from getting the car operational. If you follow this thread over the next few years, you will end up knowing how I got on.
Art |
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